I’ve recently returned from a week long ski holiday in St Moritz, Switzerland. It was my second time staying at this resort, although my first visit was pre-blog so I never wrote a post about it. I’ve got to know St Moritz fairly well now so here’s my guide to skiing at this resort…
About St Moritz
Located in Switzerland’s Engadin valley, St Moritz is the oldest winter sports resort in the world. Its chic hotels and gourmet restaurants have been luring the rich and famous since 1864.
But there is more to St Moritz than glitz and glamour. The ski area is excellent, particularly for intermediates. It has played host to two Winter Olympics, and in addition to skiing offers a range of other winter sports including dog sledging, snowshoeing, and toboganning on the famous Cresta Run.
The train transfer from Zurich takes four hours so it’s a destination better suited to a longer trip. From Zurich Airport you can take the SBB train to Chur and then the Bernina Express route to St Moritz. Trains from Chur to St. Moritz run hourly and although the journey is long, it is very scenic. Part of the railway line has UNESCO World Heritage status.
There are two areas that make up St Moritz – St Moritz Dorf and St Moritz Bad. Dorf is home to most of the four and five star hotels, restaurants, shops and clubs. Bad is a bit quieter and has some cheaper accommodations, but both have direct access to the ski slopes.
On both visits to St Moritz I’ve stayed in Dorf. The first time I stayed at the beautiful five star Hotel Kulm, which I’d highly recommend if you want to treat yourself. This time we went for something a bit cheaper and stayed at four star Art Boutique Hotel Monopol. I’ll share a more detailed review of this hotel soon but I’d definitely recommend it as a slightly more affordable option in St Moritz Dorf.
If you want to go all out and live like royalty in St Moritz, you have to check out Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, Suvretta House, or Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains. Each look incredible but are way out of my price range!
Alternatively, you could stay in the town of Celerina, about 3km away although it has a gondola which links to the ski slopes.
The main ski area is called Corviglia and is accessed by funicular from Dorf, cable-car from Bad or gondola from Celerina. The pistes are ideally suited to intermediates, and for experts there is a a vast selection of off-piste terrain. There is a lack of nursery slopes here so it’s not an ideal resort for first-timers.
Since Corviglia is so easily accessible from most of the accommodation it can get a bit crowded on weekends. If it gets too busy and you’re looking for something quieter I recommend getting the shuttle bus to nearby Corvatsch. Alternatively, the runs above the Signal cable-car or those that descend from the Gluna chair lift are often quieter than the runs in central Corviglia.
The food in St Moritz is of a high standard, and not surprisingly has a price tag to match. Here are some of my favourite dining options on the mountain which didn’t break the bank.
Panoramarestaurant Piz Nair
Situated at 3057m above sea level, this panoramic restaurant has an amazing view. Despite this, the food prices aren’t too outrageous and the cuisine is excellent. You definitely have to try the Toblerone mousse for dessert!
This restaurant is located right by the Glüna chair lift so its a convenient place to stop. The indoor seating area is quite small but they have a large sun terrace which is a beautiful spot when the weather is good. They serve traditional Swiss dishes including rösti, raclette and fondue
This one also serves your standard Swiss dishes like rösti and raclette but has a larger indoor seating area, and I just love the decor and character.
The après scene is not as lively in St Moritz compared to other resorts but you’ve still got a few options. On the slopes I like quattro BAR, which is just outside the Corviglia funicular. In the village, King’s Club at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel is the most famous club.
- The ski season in St Moritz generally runs from early December to early April. Natural snowfall is reliable as the resort is at high altitude.
- St Moritz offers a discounted ski passes to people staying at participating hotels. The hotel ski pass costs CHF 38 per day, compared to the regular price of CHF 79.